This is a short guide on how to install the Sega Mega Drive/Genesis Model switchless region 50/60hz kit which we stock at Retro Upgrades. This guide is meant for both novice and experienced installers who wish to install this kit into their console.
If you wish to get your own kit, please click here.
Preface – Although this kit is compatible with all Mega Drive/Genesis Model 2 consoles, the detailed part of this guide currently only covers a Model 2 PAL VA0-VA1.8 console install. The quick install maps below can be used for VA0-VA1.8 and VA4 (more coming soon). Part 2.1 and part 2.2 for the LED are for all revisions. Install points on other MD/Genesis main board revisions may be in different locations depending on the PCB layout. If you’re unsure on the points, you can find the pinout for most variations of the Sega VDP chip online and work from there. We will add more variations from all regions as more consoles pass through our hands.
Please note, this guide is the way we think is the optimal way to install the kit. If you wish to install yours in an different order, that’s perfectly fine!
Model 2 VA0, VA1 & VA1.8 Quick Install Map to help locate install points throughout the guide. Click here for the full size image (opens in a new tab).
Model 2 VA4 Quick Install Map to help locate install points throughout the guide. Click here for the full size image (opens in a new tab).
Mega Drive 2 VA0-1.8 Detailed Instructions (for other revisions, please use install map above).
Part 1 – Cutting Traces Firstly we want to cut three traces for video, language and reset button. We find it best to do these all in one go, The traces to cut are shown below highlighted in red.
Part 2 – Installing the LED. There are two methods we can use here. One is shown in part 2.1 and the second is shown in part 2.2.
We recommend using the adapter board which is supplied with MD2 kits as shown in part 2.1. However, if you wish to use the old method of mounting a 3 pin LED directly, see part 2.2. The LED from the MD1 kit is compatible with part 2.2, so feel free to order that kit if you would like us to supply the LED.
Part 2.1 – Installing the new tri-colour LED adapter board (recommended) We like to install the new LED next, the reason for this is that it allows us to route the wires underneath the LED vias which results in a cleaner install as shown below. You can do this step last if you wish, it’s just a little more difficult once the board is mounted in place.
First remove the old LED. You can do this by using a knife edge tip and heating both pads at the same time and slowly wiggling the old LED out, then remove the leftover solder with desoldering wick. Alternatively, if you have a desoldering pump you can use that instead.
Align the MD2 LED adapter board so that it is roughly central to the original circle LED silkscreen underneath and stick down with the provided adhesive.
Route three wires from the LED header on the mod board to the three pads of the LED adapter board. The ‘COM’ pad on the LED adapter board should go to the middle (square) pin on the LED header of the mod board. The other two pads can go to either side depending on which colour you desire per region.
Set the LED jumper for the type of LED you are using. Common Cathode = close middle and right (-). Common Anode = close middle and left (+).
The LED adapter board that we supply with the MD2 kits is ‘CA’, so if you are using the supplied LED then it should be the same as pictured in the example below.
Part 2.2 – Installing the new tri-colour LED (old method) If you wish to use a through-hole LED instead of the supplied LED adapter board, you can either 1. order the MD1 kit and use the LED from that kit or 2. source your own bi-colour 3 pin LED. If you used the LED adapter board in part 2.1, you can skip this step.
We like to install the new LED next, the reason for this is that it allows us to route the wires underneath the LED vias which results in a cleaner install as shown below. You can do this step last if you wish, it’s just a little more difficult once the board is mounted in place.
First remove the old LED. You can do this by using a knife edge tip and heating both pads at the same time and slowly wiggling the old LED out, then remove the leftover solder with desoldering wick. Alternatively, if you have a desoldering pump you can use that instead.
Bend the left and right legs of the new LED as we want to install the middle pin (common cathode) to the point below on the motherboard and route the other two pins directly to the mod board with wires.
After the new LED has been installed, snip the left and right legs, then connect a wire to each leg. Make sure that the legs are not shorted to the board underneath. This can be done by either raising the LED a little from the motherboard or adding heat shrink. We opted to do both!
Route the two wires to the LED pins on the mod board shown on the right side of the image below.
You can connect either the left or right leg to either left or right pad on the mod board, the only difference it will make is what colour is displayed per region from the LED.
Set the LED jumper for the type of LED you are using. Common Cathode = close middle and right (-). Common Anode = close middle and left (+).
The through hole LED we supply with the MD1 kits is ‘CC’, so if you are using the supplied LED then it should be the same as pictured in the example below. If you’ve sourced your own LED, verify the type with the datasheet or by using a multimeter and configure the jumper appropriately.
Part 3 – Mounting the board to the VDP chip We feel that the best spot to mount the mod board is on the VDP chip with the kit pushed forward towards the controller port slightly for the LED pads to be accessible. Mount the board with the double-sided adhesive tape which is supplied with the kit once you are happy with the placement.
Part 4 – Wiring Before we begin, here’s an image of our completed install which you can use to cross reference your work. For a larger view, see the quick map at the start of the guide or the full size picture on the product page. You can also see the results of the two different LED solutions.
Let’s start with the ‘5V’ and ‘GND’ pads of the mod board. Connect them to the points highlighted in blue below, located next to the VDP where we cut the trace for video. ‘C8’ left pad = GND and ‘R12’ left pad = +5V.
Next is video. Just below the previous step is where we cut the trace for video. We now need to use a hobby knife to scrape away solder mask to expose the trace so we can solder a wire to it. The trace is highlighted below in blue, it connects to pin 58 of the VDP chip. Connect this wire to the ‘VID’ pad of the mod board. We like to route the wires underneath the VDP pins.
Next lets head to the other side of the VDP where we cut the other two traces. Scrape away the trace for language as highlighted in blue below, solder in a wire and connect it to the ‘LANG’ pad of the mod board.
Just below this point is the next one. Scrape away the trace for the reset line as highlighted below in blue, solder in a wire and connect it to the ‘RL’ pad of the mod board.
Lastly, we have the reset button at ‘C33’ which is located on the other side of the reset button. Solder a wire from the pad highlighted in blue below to the ‘RB’ pad of the mod board.
Clean up with isopropyl alcohol and we’re finished! Take care with the traces that we soldered wire to as they’re fragile. You may even wish to UV cure some fresh solder mask ink over the top of each point for extra strength.
Troubleshooting:
Why is the LED not changing colour? LED jumper.
If you’d like to purchase a kit from us, click here.
Thanks to borti4938 for designing the original board.
If you have any suggestions regarding the guide, please feel free to send us an email.